In recent years, a new trend has emerged in the Indian culinary scene: ingredient-led menus. These are menus that are not defined by a specific cuisine, but by the quality, freshness, and seasonality of the ingredients. Instead of following set recipes, chefs create dishes that highlight the essence and flavour of each component, often using innovative techniques and global influences. This trend reflects a growing interest among chefs and diners to explore the diversity and richness of Indian produce, as well as to support local farmers and artisans.
One of the pioneers of this trend is chef Hussain Shahzad, executive chef at The Bombay Canteen, O Pedro, and Veronica’s, who believes that cooking without ingredients is not cooking at all. He says, “We prioritise working with ingredients rather than strictly adhering to set recipes, as that allows us to celebrate the rich and vibrant flavours that the season offers.” His restaurants feature dishes like Roasted Hara Chanaa Salad, made with fresh green chickpeas, and Strawberry and Cream, featuring local strawberries.
The Challenges and Opportunities of Ingredient-Driven Restaurants
While ingredient-led menus offer a lot of creative freedom and flexibility for chefs, they also come with their own challenges. One of the main challenges is sourcing specialised and quality produce, especially in a country like India, where the demand for mass-produced food is high. Chef Shahzad points out that finding premium ingredients is not easy, and often requires building relationships with farmers and suppliers who share the same vision and passion.
Another challenge is breaking the perception of diners who are used to cuisine-centric restaurants and expect a certain type of food. Chef Johnson Ebenezar, chef patron and co-founder of Bengaluru-based Farmlore, a farm-to-plate restaurant that focuses on local ingredients, says that when he started, people often asked him what cuisine he was serving. He says, “We had a difficult time trying to convince them that a cuisine can be created around local ingredients.”
However, these challenges also present opportunities for chefs to educate and inspire their customers, as well as to collaborate and learn from other chefs and communities. Chef Gresham Fernandes, who helms the kitchen at Bandra Born, a pop-up restaurant that showcases the diverse cultures and cuisines of Bandra, says that ingredient-led restaurants allow chefs to be in charge of the menu and to play with the food. He says, “We try to showcase all the minute communities that make up Bandra and spotlight the way they cook, and their inspirations throughout the years.”
The Future of Ingredient-Led Menus in India
With more and more restaurants across the country choosing to go the ingredient-led path, the concept will only expand in the coming years. While one of the reasons is the Indian diner’s evolving palate and curiosity, it is also bolstered by a growing awareness and responsibility among chefs and diners to cook and eat seasonally and sustainably, and to pay due homage to local ingredients and traditions.
Chef Fernandes agrees, “I definitely think there will be more restaurants that will open up like this as people want something different. And we’ll always have chefs who love ingredients and are working towards understanding what is in season and trying to cook more sustainably.”
